Panamá…Gateway to the Americas Part I

Panama holds a special place for me. Panama, oddly is the place that showed me the dream could be a reality. In many ways, the second stage of my life, the globe hopping travel addict phase begins with Panama. Roughly 10 years ago I awoke on a September Saturday on my couch with a crushing hangover. Cold sweats, Dante’s hell and misery type hangover. I had continued my Friday night tradition of seeing my old retired guys at a local dive bar for a few rounds then hitting a Polish hall for a Time Machine experience. How long was I there? Who knew.When did I leave? Also no clue. My group of friends at the time found no lack of awesome in our Friday night blackouts. There were fights in the parking lot, people cried, fell asleep in the bathroom, pissed their pants etc. I was caught in a conundrum. I was in my mid to late twenties….I had crushed grad school, I had achieved some significant professional goals…I was doing what I loved…but something was missing. To quote Fight Club there was a metaphorical cut in the roof of my mouth that would heal if id only stop tonguing it. I could continue on, shit, maybe even watch football games and yell at the tv on Sundays to drown out the inner voice that pleaded for change. I believe now that whether you think there is more for you, or if you dont, you are correct either way.

After waking up on my couch that Saturday in utter crushing defeat I harnessed some much needed determination. I thought about this weekend cycle…

Bar Friday night

Saturday feel like microwaved dogshit

Sunday lament the loss of the weekend, maybe some stupid brunch with Friday bar crowd (I hate brunch)

I decided I had it break the cycle. I looked at my checking acct on the mobile app while already shamed in my current state and saw the damage all those poor decisions had cost me. I decided then and there to take a month off from going out on the weekends. I wanted to know what else I could do with the funds of 4 random weekends of debauchery.

I took the entire month of October off from going out on the weekends. I made food at home and conquered parts pf my perpetual reading list and polished lecture notes. I may have even cleaned the house. By the end of the month I was ASTOUNDED. Going out is insanely expensive! Even drinking lawnmower beers in dive bars and maximizing pizza coupons. I felt like I had discovered a secret weapon. With a stroke of serendipity within days of this revelation direct flights from Chicago to Panama on COPA air popped up for next years spring break. I grabbed not only a ticket but a weeks worth of budget accommodation. One month of sobriety and thoughtful decisions had just sent me to Central America. There was no going back. It was time to plan!

More of my revelations and how panama changed my life in the second installment… part II coming up shortly

Travel Hell has arrived… And That’s Okay.


🌍🚗✈️ Embracing the Buzz: The Excitement of the Busy Travel Season! 🌍🚗✈️

a few words of optimism as you fight the crowds;

As the warm sun graces the sky and the scent of adventure lingers in the air, we find ourselves immersed in the midst of a bustling travel season. Whether it’s the long-awaited summer holidays, a break from school, or simply a desire to explore new horizons, there’s no denying the allure of this busy time for travelers across the globe.

From crowded airports to jam-packed highways, the energy is palpable as people embark on journeys near and far. The spirit of wanderlust fuels the collective imagination, reminding us of the immense beauty and diversity our world has to offer. Amidst the hustle and bustle, there is a certain magic that permeates the atmosphere, making the busy travel season an experience in and of itself.

The airports, usually synonymous with stress and rush, become melting pots of cultures and stories. Families eagerly gather at departure gates, sharing laughter, tears, and heartfelt goodbyes. Excited travelers, armed with backpacks and suitcases, exchange tips and tales, creating an unspoken bond that transcends language barriers. The cacophony of announcements, the buzz of conversations in different tongues, and the clatter of luggage wheels blend into a symphony of wanderlust, an orchestra of anticipation.

Meanwhile, the highways stretch out like ribbons of adventure, connecting destinations and weaving dreams. Caravans of vehicles wind their way through scenic routes, each car a vessel of stories waiting to be told. Roadside rest stops come alive with the laughter of families, the clinking of coffee cups, and the excited chatter of road trip enthusiasts. Road warriors, their faces beaming with joy and curiosity, delight in the serendipity of the open road, where unexpected discoveries await around every bend.

Even popular tourist destinations, typically bustling year-round, become more vibrant during this season. Historic landmarks, pristine beaches, and charming cities thrive with activity as visitors from all corners of the globe converge to soak up the cultural tapestry of the locale. Street vendors offer tantalizing treats, musicians serenade passersby, and the colorful whirlwind of street performers captivates the imagination. There’s an undeniable sense of unity as people from different walks of life come together to celebrate the beauty of the world.

Of course, the busy travel season also comes with its challenges. Long lines, packed accommodations, and increased traffic can test the patience of even the most seasoned travelers. However, in the face of these obstacles, we find an opportunity for personal growth and resilience. Patience and understanding become virtues as we navigate the crowds, sharing smiles with strangers and finding solace in the shared adventure.

So, as we embrace the busy travel season, let us savor every moment, cherishing the memories we make and the connections we forge along the way. Let us be grateful for the opportunity to explore our magnificent planet, knowing that these vibrant and lively times will pass all too quickly. Whether we’re jetting off to exotic destinations, embarking on road trips, or immersing ourselves in the culture of a new city, let us revel in the spirit of adventure and wanderlust that unites us all.

Happy travels, fellow adventurers, and may this busy travel season be filled with unforgettable experiences, meaningful encounters, and a renewed sense of wonder for the world we share! 🌍✨🧳

The Magic of Florence

Lisbon to Florence

What can be said about Florence that hasn’t been already imbibed by hundreds of others over the centuries? There is simply no other city like it. There are great cities, wonderful cities, fucking stellar cities all over the world, and Florence will always rank in the top echelons for me. What is it? The food, the architecture, the history, the narrow streets, the strong cafe culture… the list goes on and on. I think in essence, Florence is a feeling. Having recently arrived from Portugal, I was feeling quite fond of Lisbon. The seaside city had all of the things I’ve just mentioned. A rich history, quant cafes, the European feel without the overdone trite Disney-fied vibes. I have an inkling that I could live in Lisbon, and that I will enjoy visiting Lisboa for many years to come. I had not been back to Tuscany since 2016. I remember being enthralled with my time here. but there was only so much time and so many other destinations…and then there was covid and by that time I had discovered South America and began a torrid affair with the Latin world. This run over the pond I ended up here almost by accident.

will never look like this during the summer season

Stepping off the plane, the airport is provincial and a bit shabby. My taxi was a Prius piloted by an intense elderly woman with a heavy foot and an even heavier brake. She apologized profusely as the rate for Sunday fares from the airport are an additional 2 euro. I consoled her the best I could. I knew there were great things ahead

Panino magic

I would never dream of coming here in peak season. This city is a rather severe experience. Not to be trifled with. Some of these crazed “ tour groups” hit this city like an army of marauding bandits armed with phones/cameras, twisted yelp reviews and “best of guides” to plunder the landscape over only a few hours. Post pillage moving back into their foul caravans en route to yet another destination, molesting an entire country in only a few days. Flying home with stuffed storage, crooked selfies, and plastic souvenirs…liked crazed perverts ready for their next act of debauchery marked as “vacation” to repeat the process a few years later. Just watching them makes me shudder and my lower digestive organs pang with unease.

Pay tribute to these pieces as often and as many times as possible.

This city is like a long lost favorite lover. Preparation is key, patience an absolute necessity. January proves near perfect, the chill in the air drives one to the cafes, cappuccino or Chianti powered afternoons provide the serendipity for wandering the narrow streets and stopping in the small shops, taking in the history and feeling this place that has truly captivated so many before us, and will continue to do long after we are gone. Can you “do” Florence in a few days? Fuck no. Don’t try.

Wander and enjoy

Visit. Relax. Go slow. Savor the moments. Enjoy the flavors. Revel in the art and the history…And promise yourself you will come back.

The Hungry Ghost of Colombia

Yes, i know, im just about to go to bed. Before I go… I’m here in Bogota, where a big hotel suite and crisp air combined with overcast skies and strong coffee seem to juice the mojo and inspire me to hit the keyboard. How do I end up here so often? I feel like the “hungry ghost” mentioned by the late Bourdain. I wander these cities, some more than others in search of something. At times I return again and again to haunt these areas, leaving pieces of myself behind. As i turn the idea over in my mind (always at night and when alone) I stumble on bits of clues as to why I do it. I am searching for authenticity. Authentic experiences, authentic interaction. I need the real. I am addicted to it. Hence why you will never see me haunting a cruise ship or an all inclusive resort. I can read a brochure and know exactly what that entails. I need something else. a kind of adventure, a kind of lust, a big fat fucking jump out of the comfort zone. Colombia in almost any iteration is dangerous. You absolutely NEED to be aware of your surroundings. As I talk to a range of people here though they say its gotten exceptionally better over the last decade.

I was never drawn to the easy places. London, Paris, Barcelona…all amazing cities in their own right with rich heritage and all quite easy to be robbed in, but also choked with loud tourists, selfies sticks and the circus that goes along with it. I don’t haunt those places, I only visit from time to time, typically for a long layover. Often to confirm my suspicions. I have a deep seated affection for visiting a place with no preconceived positive connotation and letting that place blast me with the magic. I have yet to fully unravel the mystery that lands me in certain places again and again. I can feel the urge to return. I think if I had to guess this would boil down to two primary things. People and food. the building blocks of any destination. Latin people, and the ingenuity they invest into their food/passion simply can not be overlooked, or god forbid ignored. I’ve been coming to Colombia for five years now and feel as if each city is its own country. from the coastal spots to the inner mountainous region, its really between Medellin and Bogota for me. I’ve not spent nearly as much time in Medellin as I have Bogotá simply because I have more people in Bogota and the flights go on sale more often. Each time I see fares under $300.00 I grab at least one. Sometimes up to a year in advance. “Colombia next year for a week”? of course. i’ll make it work. “Better buy two” The addiction for travel works like bread coupons, one can never have enough tickets to the promised land.

I am so moved by the people here, by the heaviness of their situation, that I started a non profit foundation this year to support the people escaping Venezuela into neighboring Colombia. Right now we are focused on artists and supporting their work but will soon expand. Knowing how my mind works, we named this effort The Andino Foundation. The Andes region encompasses Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru. This gives me fertile ground to roam and search, finding the good stuff while I hopefully leave the world a bit of a better than when I found it. I have yet to grow tired of wandering. Perhaps I will slow down one day, but in the immediate future, I’m thinking quite the opposite. I’ve been so many places that have the magic, How could I not dig into these locales to the utmost extent?

Cafe days in the midst of meltdown

During the height of the pandemic a new bit verbiage emerged to describe being under lockdown and looking at social media feeds everyday. “Doom scrolling” is the term used to describe watching the world meltdown from your phone screen. The ice caps are melting, the penguins are dying, the oceans are full of trash, there is a raging mystery virus etc. holy shit was the news a depressing place to be. And then we ‘moved on.’. The optimism hit a bump and people began mentioning a return to “normalcy” although we weren’t quite sure what that might look like these days. Just as some grains of hope began to fall from the heavens, 20222 dragged us down into a tomb to beat our kidneys with old raggedy bowling pins. Russia has invaded Ukraine… Mass graves are being discovered, millions of people are fleeing to nearby countries, and inflation has come to grind the average American under a rarely understood economic jackboot. Things are looking desperate all over the world. Food prices skyrocketing, possible nuclear warfare, the stock market has been shredded to bloody bits and is now attracting flies. The Crypto bros are in desperate need of new underwear to survive the month, and home buyers are being squeezed by nosebleed prices plus higher interest rates.

Slow down and smell the flowers from time to time

So what is to be done?!

Right this minute? Not much. Remember this too shall pass. Off all the geopolitical situations I may read about on a daily basis I can control approximately 0% of them. I’m not saying become an apathetic shit head, or that we have no agency, but there askew things in your direct, intentional life that you CAN control and that will have a direct positive impact on your life. If the news is freaking you out and making you run for a Xanax drip….stop reading it for a while. Take a walk. Take a detox from social media…Take a Fucking breathe. A ball of anxious frustration about the possible future does you and those around you absolutely no good. Like I said before, this too she pass. Stick to your plan. If your plan needs to adapt, then make the necessary changes. I walked to a cafe here in Bogotá where I enjoy the chai latte, and they have an abundance of plants. I walked a mile or so, pondered a few of life’s damnable questions then sat down to unpack some of this shit through words. I know shit is crazy out there, but there are also unabashedly amazing things too. No one I know has been burned at that that stake for witchcraft lately, people are living longer, there is no Spanish Inquisition, we can cook food by frying fucking air…these things are giant leaps over our previous experience here on earth. Remember that before 1800 not a single country on earth had a life expectancy over 40. THINK about that. No grand parents and very few parents. You’d be more concerned with plague or famine anyway.

Find some green spaces

What I’m saying is you can still embrace optimism, and yield it like a secret super weapon. Optimism is like the force, don’t give into the doom. Become an optimistic Jedi.

Thank you

Back to Bogotá

…and here we are once again. Rainy days in the Colombian capital. moody mountain views and distant thunder. Strong dark coffee is perfect to fight the afternoon nap feelings. I arrived back in Bogota around 10:30 pm, cleared customs quick, the line was light, and full of edgy defense contractors and people visiting family. I had a contact come and grab me for the very reasonable sum of 30,000 pesos. The car was tiny and possibly a Chinese knock off of a South Korean model. Crammed into the front as non official taxis are a legal grey area we sped toward the pink zone, AKA Zona Rosa, one of the more unlikely places for gringo stabbings in the city. The driver was from Medellin, a born Paisa. We talked about how the food was better was there, Bogota was a bit cold, and Cartagena too damn hot. A very similar conversation I have with most Paisa’s I encounter in Bogota.

This mission was different, I had returned to the city laden with precious cargo. turns out the pure orgiastic consumer haven that is the United States consumes quantities of high end electronics like the world might soon end. Always onto whatever the newest item might be, north Americans fiendishly devour it. easy credit terms, lay-away, buy now, pay later, damn the consequences, we must have it! This means that all the slightly used gadgets plummet in value…until you relocate them to countries with a much different GDP.

My goal here was simple. After coming here a half dozen times and getting a feel for the country and the people here, I had started a non profit foundation, an organization to facilitate the repurposing of said electronics to this market, and repurposing them, then using the funds to help the most disadvantaged folks here. Enter the Venezuelan diaspora. I will write more about all of these efforts later. ( I know, I know, I NEED to write MORE). I can only put proverbial pen to paper when the mood strikes. Often times writing is cathartic for me, the mood strikes during times of elation, and times of eminent peril. Looking at the news headlines so far this year things are looking mighty grim. Thus perhaps the words will flow.

So here I am in Bogota, collecting stories, watching the rain, pondering my role in this big twisted red brick drenched place. I have two weeks here, and I return again next month. Continually scratching at the surface. Making a small difference here and there, hoping it makes a slight positive dent in peoples lives. I know at least some of them find my attempts at the Spanish language mixed with sign language humorous. Sometimes sharing a meal with someone, and laughing a bit is best kind of impact to have.

Bogotá in the Rain

Holy shit it’s November. I’m 24 hours returned from Bogotá and Colombia is on my mind. What is it about this place? After venturing there the first time, I knew the world simply wouldn’t be the same. For the Midwestern American imagination Colombia stirs up exotic and dangerous stories. I suppose that’s why I had to go.

The stories I have encountered there keep me coming back, as often as possible. Stories of triumph, stories of despair. Realising that there are countless questions, and no easy answers. Carrying those questions with me back to the states over the years has changed me. Travel will often do that. Our very psyche must expand to accommodate new experiences and once it does, there is no going back. You can feel your previous notions creak and fracture with these new voyages. Over time they will blown apart as the former completely yields to the way things are now.

There are a few places on this stunning planet that have had this definitive impact on me, and Colombia is one of them. I have begun to untangle these stories and sort them into what they mean. Even writing about this place has its kinds of fits and starts. Now that its snowing and a touch unforgiving outside here, the time has come to write it out.

More to come soon.

Notes from Madrid

Spain is such a twisted fascination in the mind of modern history. Spending time here having read many of said histories, this stuff proves perplexing and at the same time organically fucking beautiful each and every time. As you may not remember, Barcelona, while easy to love is not my favorite city in the wide world. barcelona-is-easy-to-love/ Madrid however is near and dear to my heart. If you possess more personality than a prolapsed sphincter you cannot hate on this country. The food, the wine, the people, the architecture…the list goes on. For me, coming here after a 5 year hiatus, a global pandemic and assorted other drudgery proved completely serendipitous.

I ended up here by chance. Seriously. When a sub $300 fare to Spain popped out of Grand Rapids MI no less…I felt/feel obligated to grab it. That’s a cornerstone of my wandering. Fate based airfare. I have a shortlist, sure, but that does not 100% dictate where I’m headed. Some diety somewhere had smiled down upon me. Carpe diem. A 5 year hiatus is enough. Surely no better sign that it was time to hit Madrid, venture to near by regions and bask in Spanish glory.

This trek I brought along a non literal guest in the form of a hardcover, recently released book that had popped up in my google news a few days prior to departure. I was going to Spain with uncle Tony.

I absolutely fucking needed this book. After Bourdain died I was incredibly confused. How could the coolest guy alive with the best job in the world hang himself in a bathroom?! What I needed was to untangle what Tony and his work meant to me, and what I was going to do with that. I annihilated this book on the flight over. Laurie Woolever did such an inspiring job collecting, synthesizing and publishing over 90 interviews. For anyone left hurt, confused, or frustrated after his passing, you need this book as well. This work is like the closure you always hope for after something shitty happens. After finishing this book I felt something. I felt moved. I wandered through these streets of Madrid just like the hungry ghost Tony had talked about before. I wrote to Helen Cho, who I adored in the Roadrunner documentary, and she even replied!!

I felt my brain stem on fire, I felt all the wanderlust, all the yearning, uncertainty, doubt, apprehension and drive that has provided the rocket fuel for my travel adventures come bubbling up. Sorting through the mental gurgles…Going to Poland in 2003 opened the door, Ireland, Russia, and Thailand a few years later shredded what was left of that door down to the hinges. After Russia in 2005 there was no going back. I was a hopeless addict. Not some corny weekend warrior with a clever passport cover and cruise tickets…I mean I was done for. Married to the road. It was the fall of 05 when I realized my life would be different than most folks. The SUV, kids in matching outfits, trendy luggage sets, house in the burbs, the golden Labra-doodle thing with the dumb name and the deceptively adorable wife…? Wasn’t going to work for me. I’d be dedicated to the pursuit. Engaging the beast, like some holy warrior so it doesn’t engage me. Peeling back that onion, Pushing those boundaries, running down a dream by any and all means possible. Saving myself, because who the fuck else is supposed to do it? Would it be pretty? Hell no. I just knew (hoped) it would be worth it. To this day, I am unmarried, no kids, no pets. I have a few houseplants. I am am a travel addict. Pure and (not) simple. Tony’s show No Reservations, encapsulated that dream. My buddy showed me the Ireland episode and after that I was hooked. I devoured Bourdain’s written words like the holy gospel, and never looked back. Deep discount fare to Istanbul? Let’s do it. Christmas in the Balkan’s? I’m there. My parents friends were convinced I worked for the CIA, or some clandestine service. FB friends from high school thought it must be drug running, weapons smuggling or some sordid combination. The rumors made smile, and build more infrastructure to travel more…with no sign of slowing down just yet. Up until 2018 uncle Tony was always there like some wayward Saint with daft wisdom to encourage me along.

“The only way that we can live, is if we grow. The only way that we can grow is if we change. The only way that we can change is if we learn. The only way we can learn is if we are exposed. And the only way that we can become exposed is if we throw ourselves out into the open. Do it. Throw yourself.”

I threw myself into traveling, into experience, into the unknown. I’m eternally grateful for that. Grateful for the influences along the way that pushed me to do it. Grateful to Bourdain for such brilliant work.

Being here in Madrid, finishing that book and hitting these streets I felt a kind of familiarity. Like coming home in a way. Perhaps that’s what we are all searching for.

On Not Traveling/Writing…And Finding The Juice

Wow, here we are. I can imagine you, like me have had quite the year(s) worth of experience in my absence. My last post was January of 2020. I had shit to say but I simply stopped. I used to think of reasons, justifications, and all the rest. Then, some months in, the reality simply dawned on me… I didnt owe anything to anybody. Then the world imploded with Covid. I was on my way back from the Philippines when international air travel came to a stand still. I wrote personal things during the pandemic and built a bad ass reading list as I quarantined solo and did my part to come out of this pandemic okay. 60 or so books down things were looking on the up and up. A few choice elements of normalcy returned. I had 7-9 trips or so end up canceled over that time, and for someone who measures a real sense of time through excursion planning, the adjustment was quite real.

All of a sudden you realise that you aren’t going fucking anywhere. I hunkered down, went a bit stoic on it, and kept reading. I was working,still teaching, investing and keeping mostly sane. 2021 brought the defeat of Donald Trump and a kind of optimism that things might be headed in at least a *better* direction. I was finally able to leave the country a few times. Mini jaunts at first to Mexico, Costa Rica, and Colombia. I needed those. I have a kind of pensive lust for the “road” as it were, and if not properly satiated, I may run amok like some depraved beast. August of 2021, 2 years to the date since I last assaulted Europe’s shores found my sorry ass wandering around Dublin, Ireland. A proper pint of the dark stuff, and onto Croatia we went. I kept thinking back to Sicily(my last Euro trek), I kept thinking back to the world before Covid, before masks, mandates and madness.

Croatia was bright, beautiful, warm, soaked in Aperol and oh so perfectly European. I didnt quite have my footing yet while there. after 2 years that felt like 20 away from the continent, this was a bit like an intro round. wobbly, excited, overzealous, and eager. Prom night like fumbling at the then guarded treasure that is serene travel joy. Finding my stride proved a bit more difficult than anticipated. Returning from my conquest of the Adriatic, I waited in anticipation for the next cheap fare to come along…and BANG! thats how I ended up in Spain. My ass currently going numb in this cheap hotel chair and rickety desk. the sounds of Madrid’s boisterous Saturday night rampaging through the window. My jamon drunk senses imploring me to get back on this saddle of writing. You see I actually packed a real hardcover newly released book on this trek. Blazing through about 90% of it on the plane over I arrived in Madrid hungry and deep in thought. That’s for my next post. Turns out i’ve got some things to untangle…and WordPress just billed me for another year.

cheers.

Weekend words from Nomadic Matt

I’m here in Lima, Perú. I’ve been at this for a while. In many respects I can consider travel my life’s work. People are constantly asking me for tips, tricks, hacks etc. mostly though, it’s the “how do you do it”?

I’ve packaged that response in multiple ways over the years and each time I do I’m reminded of the most vital ingredient.

Just do it. Start somewhere. Go somewhere. Go ANYWHERE. See as much of this insanely beautiful world as you can. You will not regret it.

From Nomadic Matt (nomadicmatt.com)

“We all ponder exotic locations and amazing adventures. We think of the trips we will take and the places we will meet.

And then we abandon those dreams as rapidly as we thought them up.

We think of all the reasons why we can’t go. Why today isn’t perfect and we just have too many things to do.

Something comes up and our plans are put off until tomorrow as we wait for “the right time.” When we have more money, more time off, when things aren’t so crazy – then we can travel. We just need the stars to align a little more.

But, here is a secret: it will never be the right time to travel.

You’ll always find an excuse as to why today just isn’t the right day.

You will always have some reason to stay at home.

The idea that the stars will align and you’ll find the perfect day to step out of your door and into the world is a fantasy.

But tomorrow won’t be any better.

Tomorrow, there will still be bills to pay.

Tomorrow, there still won’t be enough money.

Tomorrow, there will still be someone’s wedding to attend or a birthday party to go to.

Tomorrow, there will still be planning to do.

Tomorrow, you will still second-guess yourself.

Tomorrow, you’ll still find yourself putting off the preparation for one more day.

Tomorrow, people you know will still sow the seeds of doubt in your head.

Tomorrow, you’ll find another excuse why you can’t go.

The perfect day will never come.

If I had waited for the “perfect day”, I’d still be waiting. I’d still be waiting for someone to come with me or for just a little more money.

Sometimes, you just have to take the leap and go for it. Ships aren’t meant to stay in harbor – and you weren’t meant to wonder “what if?” Because, one day, you’ll find you’ve run out of tomorrows.

And you’ll be filled with nothing but sadness and regret.

So stop waiting.

Take the leap.

Today is your day.”

What do you think?